Sustainability in fashion: Cradle-to-cradle and upcycling methods
by Sophia Moorghen
Recent research shows that 62% of Gen-Z shoppers prefer sustainable fashion brands, with 73% willing to pay more for eco-friendly products. This highlights that sustainability in fashion is no longer a passing trend but a vital shift towards a more responsible and ethical industry. This transformation is driven not only by consumer demand but also by environmental regulations: the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change and the 2015 Paris Agreement mandate that the fashion industry must reduce its emissions by 50% by 2030 to stay within the 1.5-degree Celsius threshold, crucial for combating climate change.
The importance of sustainability in today’s industry
By embracing sustainability, the fashion industry can drastically lower its environmental impact, promote social equity, and meet the growing demand for responsible, eco-conscious consumerism. Key examples illustrate this shift: Ye’s Foam RNNR, made partially from algae, is celebrated for its sustainable innovation. Adidas’s eco-friendly Stan Smiths made from Mylo, a mushroom-based material, and Stella McCartney’s handbags crafted from the same resource highlight how brands are leading the charge in sustainable fashion. In this article, we explore how the Cradle to Cradle model and upcycling are shaping the future of sustainability in the fashion industry.
Cradle-to-Cradle and Upcycling
The Cradle-to-Cradle System
Cradle to Cradle (C2C) is a holistic design framework that emphasizes creating products and systems where all materials used are either biodegradable and return safely to the soil, or can be perpetually recycled into new high-quality materials without any loss of integrity. This approach aims to mimic natural systems where waste is minimized, and everything is designed to contribute positively to environmental and human health.
“Our goal is a delightful diverse, safe, healthy and just world, with clean air water soil and power – economically, equitably, ecologically and elegantly enjoyed” – William McDonough
Unlike the traditional cradle-to-grave model, in his book “Cradle-to-Cradle”, William McDonough explains how C2C focuses on sustainable and regenerative design, where materials are reused in a closed-loop system, minimizing waste and promoting ecological and social responsibility.
Cradle to Cradle aspects includes :
- Material Health: Ensuring materials are safe for humans and the environment.
- Material Reutilization: Designing products so materials can be reused or composted.
- Renewable Energy: Using clean, renewable energy in production processes.
- Water Stewardship: Managing water use responsibly.
- Social Fairness: Promoting social responsibility and fair practices.
The biological and technical cycles
The cradle to cradle approach incorporates two distinct cycles : the biological cycle and the technical cycle.
The biological cycle
The biological cycle’s goal is to return materials to the biosphere safely. Products designed for the biological cycle are made from biodegradable materials that decompose naturally, providing nutrients to the environment. For example, a cotton shirt that can be composted after use, returning nutrients to the soil.
The technical cycle
On the other hand, the technical cycle’s objective is to keep synthetic materials in continuous use without contaminating the biosphere. Products designed for the technical cycle are made from materials that can be recycled or reused indefinitely without degrading in quality. For example, a metal water bottle that can be recycled into new products repeatedly.
These cycles ensure that materials are either safely returned to nature or perpetually circulated in the industrial cycle, minimizing waste and promoting sustainability.
Eileen Fisher emphasizes sustainability
Eileen Fisher stands out as a pioneer in integrating Cradle to Cradle principles into its operations. The company emphasizes sustainability through its “Renew” program, an initiative designed to take back worn clothing, clean and repair it, and then resell or transform it into new garments.
These new garments can be any brand, not just Eileen Fisher products. By focusing on closed-loop systems and sustainable materials, Eileen Fisher demonstrates a commitment to reducing waste and promoting ecological responsibility in the fashion industry.
The “Renew” program also embraces upcycling principles, by creatively repurposing old garments into new products or materials like insulation or padding, further extending their lifecycle and minimizing environmental impact.
Upcycling fashion: From sustainable resources to wardrobe
While Upcycling and Cradle to Cradle share the common goal of sustainability and reducing environmental impact, they differ significantly in their approaches and scale. Now that we’ve covered how the cradle to cradle approach works, let’s delve into the upcycling process.
Upcycling begins with selecting suitable materials for transformation. These can include various items such as old clothing, furniture, packaging materials, or industrial by-products. Materials are collected from various sources, including donations, thrift stores, industrial surplus, or even from personal collections. Once collected, these materials are sorted based on their condition, quality, and potential for upcycling. Cleaning may be necessary to remove dirt, stains, or contaminants that could affect the quality of the final product. Once the materials are collected and cleaned, designers and upcyclers envision how they can creatively repurpose them into new products. They consider the characteristics of the materials, such as texture, color, and structural integrity, to determine the best use and design approach. Depending on the original item, disassembly may be required to break down components into usable parts. Materials may be cut, reshaped, or combined with other elements to achieve the desired design and functionality. Last but not least, the crafting process involves assembling the materials into the new product : sewing, welding, gluing or carpentry may be used depending on the materials and design requirements.
Final touches are added to refine the product’s appearance and functionality. This may include painting, varnishing, polishing, or adding decorative elements to enhance the aesthetic appeal.
Recycling, on the other hand, is another way of making the industry more sustainable. It involves breaking down materials to create new products, thereby conserving resources and minimizing waste. Together, these methods contribute to reducing environmental impact and reshaping the fashion industry towards greater sustainability.
In a nutshell, how to use sustainability in fashion?
Cradle to Cradle emphasizes designing products from the outset to be part of a continuous cycle, either as biodegradable materials that return safely to the environment or as endlessly recyclable components that maintain their quality. This approach ensures that fashion items are created with their entire lifecycle in mind, minimizing waste and promoting the use of safe, sustainable materials.
Upcycling, on the other hand, focuses on the creative reuse of existing materials, transforming discarded items into new, higher-value products without breaking them down into raw materials. This method not only reduces waste but also conserves resources by extending the lifecycle of materials through innovative repurposing.
Both methods aim to minimize textile waste and reduce the volume of discarded fashion items ending up in landfills. By reusing materials, upcycling conserves natural resources and reduces the need for raw material extraction, while Cradle to Cradle promotes the use of renewable and sustainable materials. Moreover, these approaches reduce the fashion industry’s carbon footprint and pollution by encouraging more efficient manufacturing processes, the elimination of harmful chemicals, and the adoption of energy-saving technologies.